In this sample from Dufftown’s oldest distillery, we recognized typical sherry markers – struck matches, treacle toffee, custard tarts, welly boots and honey-glazed ham with Branston. It also had polished wood, apple sauce and intimations of dry smoke. The mouth-drawing palate had cinder toffee, ginger, molasses and barbequed bananas and pork sausages. In reduction, the nose became more interesting; treacle toffee in waxed paper, salty beef, hay, lime, orange jelly, iced caramels and chocolate Easter eggs; and we found it much more drinkable – indeed the flavours of Christmas cake, mocha coffee and chocolate ginger biscuits gave it a whisper of decadence.