A complex nose – layers of fruit (apple granny cake, pear crumble, strawberry), buttered malt loaf, fudge and ice-cream – then definite sub-strata of cinnamon spice, tea chests, saunas and incense smoke. We found the palate beautifully sweet and juicy – maple syrup, citrus, dark cherry, pralines, nougat, sugared almonds and salted caramel; but long years in oak came through as sandalwood oil, cask staves, anise and leather. The reduced nose combined pear sorbet and sherbet lemon with crispy aromatic duck, Moroccan spices and old-fashioned perfume. The palate now had elegant, aromatic fruits, smooth hazelnut and chocolate and light under-tows of pleasant woody spice.