The nose was complex and dark – mysterious molasses, black-jacks (blackcurrant and liquorice), dark toffee, tarmac after rain (on the road to hell?), toast, tobacco, oily boats from the river Styx, spicy seaweed and charred mackerel. Icelandic ash clouds settled ominously over the palate – kippers, burnt toast, liquorice, honey-glazed gammon, tempting treacle toffee, crème brûlée – ashy, smoky and sweet – big personality and wonderfully rounded. The reduced nose found marmite, Tunnock’s caramel log, soy sauce, devilish Demerara, fireplaces, rose water and custard. The palate now seemed sweet and savoury – dark chocolate melted over crispy bacon. From the place where the Devil can’t go.