The frightfully delightful nose suggested polished wood, spun sugar, caramelized fruits, coffee with Danish pastries and cedar shelves in a candy shop groaning under floral confectionery. The palate had great textures and a warm, flavoursome glow, expanding in the mouth like a giant’s accordion – maple syrup on French toast, fruit bars, toffee, dark sugar, cinnamon, cherry and chocolate mints.

The reduced nose found honey, rosewater, hazelnut, caramel, orange peel, raisins and dates, plus an unaccountable curiosity of dusty smoke, ash, tobacco and creosoted wood. The palate was marvellously mellifluous – dried fruits, crème brûlée, amazin’ rum and raisin, and sinful cinnamon sweetness.