The nose had sweet hickory smoke, pagoda roof timbers and a boat-builder’s workbench; rich, delightful savoury notes (grilled prawns and scallops in balsamic glaze, roast pig with an apple in its mouth); plus molasses, cough syrup, five-spice powder and leather. The reduced nose seemed Christmassy (aromatic apple logs, chimney soot, roast pork) even pagan (dried flowers, smoky wool and leather clothing).

The palate was deep and dark (treacle toffee, molasses, balsamic glaze, fig jam) but hugely entertaining. In reduction, the palate became ashy and drying, with creosote, driftwood bonfires, charred limes and well-done meringues.