We found the nose clean and ozone fresh – bonfire smoke drifting over the machair, seaweed, rock-pools, scallop shells and green mussels; smoke-impregnated wood (smokehouse, kiln). Behind the smoke, there was lemon, orange blossom, fino sherry, boiled mint sweets, liquorice and tar. The palate had vigorous, concentrated intensity and deep flavours (tar, aniseed, black liquorice, swirling smoke, tobacco, ashtray) – but still that freshness of menthol and the scent of rain in the air.

The reduced nose added orange peel, lemon on barbecued sardines, sugar-coated fennel seeds and heather flowers. The palate became more rounded and satisfying – sweet woody smoke, smoked almonds, salted caramel, pineapple chunks and langoustines.