The nose was immediately promising – offering buttered popcorn, puff candy, caramel, burnt orange peel, toasted almonds, pot-pourri, molasses and Christmas essential oils. The palate had good viscosity and an expanding universe of flavours – orange and lemon zest, moist gingerbread, wood-sap, candied angelica, pepper and Lea and Perrins – chewy and tasty, with spicy tingles. The reduced nose found malt, maple syrup on bacon, porridge and a wood-panelled room. The palate now suggested duck with orange sauce, syrup of figs and leather thongs – and seemed to dance around the tongue like a ballerina in stilettos. Named after a tributary of the Spey.