The nose gave us fruit salad chews, sherbet lemons, blackberries, lime and oysters, but mainly it was smoke, melting tar, brine, Germolene, coal-tar soap, seaweed, cigar ash, rubber tires and exhaust fumes (like a CalMac ferry). The palate delivered loads of ash, soot and sweet smoke – chili-roasted nuts and a charcoal barbecue with smoked mackerel and charred prawns. The reduced nose offered first aid boxes, canvas, burnt mackerel skin and something earthy (terracotta plant pots, grow-bags). The taste was sweeter – peanut M&Ms and candy-coated fennel seeds – a fine sweet-salty balance with lots of heat, from the biggest distillery on Islay.