The nose spread a smear of sweetness (Danish pastries, Victoria sponge, Wagon Wheels) textured by a continuous snow-fall of curiosities – aniseed, Kummel, grappa, sandalwood, conifers, grass, leather, raisins, pineapple and sherry – complex and intriguing. Adding water brought out the fruitiness – strawberry, pear, kiwi and tinned fruit cocktail. The palate, though big and hot, had sweet juicy fruits and a succession of mouth-watering flavours – apple skins, blackcurrant Starburst in waxed paper and egg-custard tart. The heat came from ginger, nutmeg and pepper spice, but (especially with water) this was a refreshing, smooth and enjoyable dram from the first of Dufftown’s seven stills.