We detected something of the sea on the nose – fresh oysters, a pebble beach, boat-decks and rush matting in a fisherman’s cottage. Beyond that we got gooseberry and lemon, salted caramel and bubble-gum bonbons – maybe also some bacon crisps. The palate was deliciously smoky, salty and floral – violets, lavender and sherbet straws, with dry earthy spices and an almost coal-dust minerality. The reduced nose evoked swimming pools in exotic parks or gardens, scented candles, dried seaweed and burnt paper in a bee-smoker. The palate had become a sweet, smoky, floral delight, with burnt flower bouquets and honey on charred staves.