Pata Negra jamon to start – Spanish prosciutto – then a perfumed scent (rose, dried rosemary?), with a hint of white wine and a pack of cigarettes; then ‘coastal’ and ‘garden party’ (What?! ‘cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches on a damp day’!). Water brings up its more usual characteristics of hemp ropes, leather bikers’ jackets (‘Triumph, not Harley’), and barbecue (‘char-grilled eggplant with rosemary’). The taste is sweet and ‘old-fashioned’ at natural strength, with guy ropes (lightly tarred), tobacco and bruschetta; water sweetens the taste, holds the hemp and lingers pleasantly in an old-fashioned way.