The nose was clean and easy – lemon bonbons, rhubarb rock and pineapple, with the sweetness of chocolate teacakes, meringues and butter icing; also faint fizziness (reminiscent of vintage champagne) and given time, hints of expensive shoe leather. The palate was sweet, viscous and tasty, with vanilla essence, hazelnuts in milk chocolate, currants, and Jamaican ginger cake; hints of orange peel and grapefruit on the finish.

Water shifted the nose to a fresher, more floral level – roses, crème patisserie and Liquorice Allsorts. The palate (delicate enough to need very little water) now delivered marshmallows and dark chocolate mints – very quaffable indeed.