‘Sweet manna from heaven’ – toffee, fudge, caramel, Toffifees, vanilla, honey – but more – tea chests, spice racks, aromatic smoke, burnt heather and pencils in a library – we could have sniffed it endlessly. Water opened up the fruit – sherbet, orange zest, peach, strawberry, tinned grapes, sweet sap and light smoke – panellists grinning like Cheshire cats. The sweet, oaky palate had tablet, fudge and bread dough – by an open fire; but it also had a darker side – woody, earthy, drying, with sticky cassis and treacle. Water brightened it up – Starbursts, Skittles and spicy Advocaat. From the distillery always directed by John or George.