This complex, lively dram did not appeal to everyone’s taste. The nose had delightful sweetness (spun sugar, toffee apples, marzipan, Daim bars) and fruitiness in the form of stewed plums and cherry brandy; but we also detected butterfly wing-beats of rubber, dried flowers and linseed oil.

Water brought out sultana loaf, rum and raisin truffles and Soreen malt loaf. The palate offered tangy but sweet toffees in a tin and candy necklaces, plus deeper notes of leather, rubber, caramelized onions and black pepper. Water softened the palate to Coco Pops and cappuccino with hints of Christmas spice – much more drinkable in reduction.