We were inside a classic steam locomotive cab with the train driver and the fireman crossing the Glenfinnan viaduct on our way to Hogwarts, no, in fact to Mallaig. Cold, coal dust and ash was all around us but we were snug in a soft cashmere blanket.

When taking a sip neat it felt like the stoker feeding coal into the firebox of the boiler. After we replenished water, we passed ‘the silver sands of Morar’ at full steam and arrived at Mallaig where we had smoked mussels as well as ‘burnt’ carrots and parsnips, enjoying the view to the islands of Eigg, Rum and Skye.