The nose had a sophisticated and subtle combination of toffee, honey and cola cubes, lemon tart, rosewater, apricot jam and peach schnapps. The palate was textured and complex – sweet, tangy and bright, but with deeper underlying notes; we got rum and raisin ice-cream and melted dark chocolate, with teasing nips of chili, clove, aniseed and ginger to finish.

We found the reduced nose rewarding and ‘classic’ – dried papaya, pineapple, chocolate orange and a mixture of flowers and fruitcake that evoked weddings. The reduced palate was tasty and sweet – chocolate, fudge, toffee, banana chips and knickerbocker glory, with cinnamon swirls coming later.