This nose was never far from the sea – seaweed-covered rocks, sea-breezes, whelks, golden sand and ship’s timbers – but we also got wood-smoke and fireplaces, syrupy pancakes, pepper, lemon peel and minty toothpaste. The tongue-numbing, lip-licking palate had sweet, floral smoke (elderflower, lavender, violets), lemon and orange peel in bittersweetmarmalade and touches of tobacco andeucalyptus on the finish. The nose turned fresher with water – succulent samphire, furniture polish, laundry, lime and harbours. Water made the palate less intriguing, more straightforward but still elegant – beach barbecues and lemon and white pepper over smoked salmon. From the 1779 distillery on Lochindaal.