The nose, with smoke, embers, smoky bacon crisps, ashtrays and seasoned wood suggested old-style smoky pubs. We also got cinnamon sugar and pears in wine with clove and orange peel. The unreduced palate was intensely sweet and hot, conveying cinders, sugar-coated fennel seeds and liquorice allsorts. Water brought incense, perfumed smoke, jamón serrano and barbeques to the nose; also ginseng, wood-sap and herbal hints. The palate seemed even sweeter but always balanced by coal, ash, smoke, citrus and salt water – suggestions included margaritas and ‘lime squeezed on a razor strop’. You almost could hit Jura with a skimmer from here.