The nose is just typical – a leather handbag containing sherbet straws, floral and sandalwood perfumes and a cigarette packet – found in a French Polisher’s workshop. Lots of delicious stuff on the palate – choux pastry, plum jam, rhubarb and custard, vanilla sponge and rum-soaked fruits; crystallized ginger, tobacco leaf and chili jam to finish.

The reduced nose suggests a sassy lassie in a leather skirt entering an aromatherapy parlour – cigarette in one hand and a honey-guzzling Winnie the Pooh in the other. The palate becomes sweeter but with an acidic edge – orange and ginger marmalade, Moffat toffees*, marshmallows, clean oak and blackcurrant. (* acidic toffees from a southern Scottish town)