We were immediately impressed by the creamy, sweet fruitiness of the nose – impressions of banana split and strawberry yogurt slowly sharpened to chocolate limes, plum jam, quince jelly and sherbet. The palate enjoyed good initial sweetness – crystallised honey, marzipan, vanilla cheesecake and candied orange dipped in chocolate, but the finish seemed spicier, with cinnamon apples, clove and coffee granules.

Water brought out more astringent notes of lemon drops and perfumed pear on the nose, then gooseberry, lemon zest, nutmeg and sour plums on the palate – but all the while retaining the balancing sweetness of custard creams and brown sugar.