The nose found rock pools, fishing nets and first aid kits, plus really delicate touches of smoke and embers; peering through the thin haze we identified honey, vanilla, lemon zest and heather. The peat smoke, more noticeable on the palate, was balanced by green apples and bananas, some herbal, grassy notes and ‘retrieving gummy sweets from an ashtray’.

The reduced nose discovered candy-shop flavours of lemon, lime and orange sherbet, tart fruits and an ice cream van on the beach. On the palate, the honeyed fruits counterpointed the coastal, smoky elements, all in perfect equilibrium – before a teasing finish of tar, tobacco, coconut and chilli.