The initial nose was clean, fresh and alluring, offering chocolate, nougat and honeycomb toffee; gradually balanced by dried grass and flowers – we could imagine honeyed apricot flan and corn dollies laid out on a polished boardroom table – classy. The palate had two complementary levels – a lively bugle blast of juicy, succulent sweetness (fudge, cinnamon biscuits, currants, orange zest) underpinned by a very dry, deep tuba-like reverberation of toasted oak.

The reduced nose became slightly more perfumed – fresh marigolds and nasturtiums instead of dried. The palate discovered a compromise note of putty, oiled cricket bats and waxed wood. A rewarding dram.