The nose is a cracker – treacle tart, syrup sponge and Toffifays; caramel latte, sherry trifle (with orange jelly), coffee kisses, flowers and wine-soaked oak. The palate is deep as Mariana and weighty as Nigerian Guinness in a clay pot – burnt fruit cake, raisins flamed in spiced rum, clove-flavoured gingerbread and leather.

With water, the nose gets spice-laden incense, liquorice bullets, brandy snaps, espresso and Battenberg cake. The palate is easier but still tannic – caramelized sugar, barbecued pineapple, Butterkist popcorn and tar – dancing the tarantella on the tongue. After 15 years in ex-bourbon wood we transferred this to a 1st fill shaved, toasted and re-charred barrique.