The initial nose is quite light – polished wood, leather and socks drying on a wood-burning stove – but it grows darker with time –liquorice and dark chocolate sweetness, coal bunkers and nutty smoke. The neat palate has more of everything – sweeter, smokier and spicier – Victory V lozenges and aniseed, tar and tobacco, spiced nuts and earthy smoke – even some blackcurrant and pomegranate fruity intensity.

Water shifts the nose to somewhere between an old-fashioned apothecary and a leather elbow patch, pipe-smoking, warm, avuncular masculinity. The palate now turns sweet and savoury – roasted squash, sage, charred chili, peat smoke and tar – very tasty indeed.