All malts change in the glass - this one more than most! It begins clean, fresh and mineralic, with a soapy edge, then gains soft toffee and charcoal, with heather pollen, then moves towards treacle toffee, dentists’ mouthwash and… prawn cocktail crisps! The taste, at this stage, is sweet, salty and tarry (toasted barley; a hot kiln), with smoky bacon crisps. Water raises exhaust fumes, railway engines, Hippie Afghan coats, goats, a smoking Bakelite plug, Plasticine, melting vinyl records, bonfire ash; the taste now soft, sweet, salty, clay-like, with malt in the ashy finish. From the Prince of Wales’ favourite distillery.