We jived all night among sweet perfumes on a polished jazz joint dancefloor; then gratefully enjoyed lavender-scented foot rubs and rose and violet dark chocolate creams from someone who stubbed out yenidje cigarettes in a wooden ashtray. The palate was a welcome home hug – Granny’s perfume, hickory wood smoke and embers, lapsang souchong tea, orange blossom and seashore – with a teasing light astringency on the finish.

The reduced nose had us floating in a wooden boat on an Islay lily pond, with maltings smoke and sea breezes in the distance. The palate – grilled prawns and moules marinière, a tarry rope dipped in your sauvignon blanc.