Funny how old Speysides can start on the nose like paint before gliding effortlessly into sensual exotic fruits – this was like that – lemon, cherry, mango and jelly beans; also rich toffee, black jack chews, geranium and elderflower. The palate had refreshers, coffee, cocoa powder, orange liqueur, tobacco, Parma violets, perfume, leather and waxed jackets – somewhere between George Clooney’s Dapper Dan pomade and Holly Hunter’s handbag.

With water, the nose seemed even more perfumed – waxy pine needles and sage. The palate’s sweet fruitiness (cherry Bakewell tart) was complimented by espresso dregs and cinnamon stick. This Chivas Bros distillery lies south of Elgin.