Deep, heady perfumes (rose, elderflower, geranium, lily of the valley, Chanel No. 5) gradually enfolded us in warm, welcoming hugs; complex (marzipan, autumn leaves, chestnuts, orange peel, vanilla, plum jam, cigar boxes) – amazing for its age. The velvety smooth, rich palate had flavours of Armagnac, fragrant wood, marmalade and sultanas – elegant but muscular. The reduced nose remained intense – a real sniffer’s dram (cherry pipe tobacco, mint, whisky marmalade) – somewhere between Moroccan spice markets and a country house wardrobe (shades of Narnia?). The reduced palate evoked J.K. Rowling in the Elephant House café – coffee, currant brioche, chewing a pencil. From Elgin’s younger distillery.