One or two panellists found the nose slightly musty, and some said slow to open, but we identified fudge, candy, toffee, vanilla, carrot cake, melting Demerara, hard fruity sweets, mandarins and upside-down pineapple cake. The palate was immediately big, stimulating and fab – lots of juicy fruits, sherbet, woody spices (including quinine) and slightly over-baked cakes. The nose became more interesting with water – now including gin botanicals and herbs (gentian, Chartreuse), almost salty even. The reduced palate was ‘just so-ooh nice’, though perhaps a tad bitterer with traces of mint in the aftertaste. The distillery takes the name of the county.