Wandering through the mist of perfumes in duty free, we made a beeline for the candy section before boarding a vintage aeroplane: tutti frutti gummies in cardboard boxes, foam bananas, vanilla and lemon bonbons, and spiced cookies. To taste, we found all of the above, plus baked apples with ginger, raspberries atop clotted cream on warm scones, and rhubarb with custard.

A splash of water elevated the vanilla on the nose and added melted beeswax and cola candies. The palate was now creamy and sweet, with maple sponge and toffees, a dusting of mace, and tropical bonbons.