This was evidently going to be a meaty dram upon first nosing. The Panel immediately detected brisket burnt ends, beef jerky and Philly cheesesteak sandwich vibes. We also noted a farmyard tang, vapour rubs, cola syrup, peat-smoked cherries and hot paprika crisps. Water brought seafood charring on a barbecue, smoked butter, burning hay, molten butterscotch and the umami qualities of yeast extract.

The palate neat was one big wallop of dense, sweet, tarry smoke, with inclusions of antiseptic, chip-shop saveloy sausages, peppered mackerel and chorizo jam. Water did little to quell the potency, but evolved it to reveal sootier undertones, more tarred rope, unusual smoked cheeses, petrichor undergrowth, crushed nettles, the burnt bits of roast hogget shoulder and smouldering rosemary wood. What a wild wee beasty, we all agreed! After 7 years in a refill sherry puncheon, this whisky was transferred into a refill toasted butt for the remainder of its maturation.