Warm-reekin’, rich ... socks in the laundry basket, coal smoke, barbecued burnt ends, red wine reduction. The nose was rich and deep. We tasted butter-fried lichen, with beechwood smoke extract, toasted marshmallows, smoked butter, wintergreen, and a wave of chilli spice latterly.

Water served a line-up of ski boots wrapped in waxed paper, old engine parts and grilled sausages on the nose. The palate was now lifted by peppermint and lemon, with marshmallows, nutmeg in lime juice, coal dust and a second helping of grilled sausages. After three years in a re-charred hogshead, we transferred this to a 2nd fill Moscatel hogshead for the remainder of its maturation.